Wednesday, 28 December 2011
Theo in the Philippines
Theo in the Philippines
Theo seems to fascinate many people here. They overlook the havoc he causes as he races around the restaurant, refusing to sit down, or grabs all the delicate objects from the shop shelves, and just tussle his hair, smile at him, point him out to friends, high-five him and even pick him up for a cuddle. Its lovely to see men being just as affectionate as women, very gentle and calm, absorbing themselves in his world for a moment.
He seems to unwittingly draw attention to himself. Here at the laguna hot springs resort, a luxurious Korean family thermal spa on the outskirts of Manila, he often has an audience, which makes it hard to tell him off, wipe his snot on the grass or help him have a sneaky pee in the bushes. It doesn't help that he's always taking his pants off - he swam naked in Palawan, which I think is normal for a 2 year old swimming in the sea in a remote area - but was the cause of much hilarity for onlookers. People tend to swim with their t-shirts and even trousers, and for those who can't swim, life jackets too. So the trunks are a must at the resort, but he keeps derobing, flinging them to one side and insisting on being a 'NAKED BOY!', which is quite embarrassing.
Dyl says the attention stems from the rarity of seeing a toddler swim unassisted with arm bands and jump off the edge confidently, as Theo does. He loves the water so much he has a permanent smile and is always involving himself with people. We are also the only Europeans at the spa so he stands out with his blonde curls and little white body. Many of the guests are Korean and are not used to seeing white European kids.
He is completely fearless. In Palawan he jumped off the bangka boat into the deep ocean, unphased by the dark water and choppy waves. He even came with us as we swam from the boat through a limestone cave into to a huge lake in a volcanic canon. Lala said he gave her more confidence in the water - if he isn't scared, why should we be.
Traveling with Theo is demanding and rewarding - and definitely fun. I don't get a break for long, although Mum, Dyl and Lala have been wonderfully helpful. Im trying to potty train him too, which is again an extra challenge in the circumstances, but working quite well.
Despite his cuteness, Theo is truly exhausting - just 2 gears, full speed or passed out. Non-stop mischief and an incredible ability to blank any instructions that ruin his fun. I miss Tom so much at times.
His vocabulary is improving at an impressive rate since we have been away. The urge to relate his new experiences has made him acquire new words with alarming rapidity.
Inevitably, I worry about him all the time (especially without tom here to do the worrying for me). Key worries: his diet - especially being veggie (I tried him with some fish, to no avail), his mozzy bites (they love him), overheating, getting sun burn, being thirsty, being anxious, missing dad, missing home etc etc etc - but these seem abstract, as he really appears to be flourishing. He swam in the thermally heated waters of the pool from the moment he got up until supper time today. Ate a huge portion of Korean rice, veg and egg ( its similar dishes 3 times a day here, with rice for breakfast - we've smuggled bread and dairylea into our room) and then fell fast asleep in our cabin. Sleeping in the same bed together in new beds, new rooms, being continually on the move and getting into a routine with the jet lag ( 8 hours difference) has been a challenge, but I think we've cracked it.
Theo seems to fascinate many people here. They overlook the havoc he causes as he races around the restaurant, refusing to sit down, or grabs all the delicate objects from the shop shelves, and just tussle his hair, smile at him, point him out to friends, high-five him and even pick him up for a cuddle. Its lovely to see men being just as affectionate as women, very gentle and calm, absorbing themselves in his world for a moment.
He seems to unwittingly draw attention to himself. Here at the laguna hot springs resort, a luxurious Korean family thermal spa on the outskirts of Manila, he often has an audience, which makes it hard to tell him off, wipe his snot on the grass or help him have a sneaky pee in the bushes. It doesn't help that he's always taking his pants off - he swam naked in Palawan, which I think is normal for a 2 year old swimming in the sea in a remote area - but was the cause of much hilarity for onlookers. People tend to swim with their t-shirts and even trousers, and for those who can't swim, life jackets too. So the trunks are a must at the resort, but he keeps derobing, flinging them to one side and insisting on being a 'NAKED BOY!', which is quite embarrassing.
Dyl says the attention stems from the rarity of seeing a toddler swim unassisted with arm bands and jump off the edge confidently, as Theo does. He loves the water so much he has a permanent smile and is always involving himself with people. We are also the only Europeans at the spa so he stands out with his blonde curls and little white body. Many of the guests are Korean and are not used to seeing white European kids.
He is completely fearless. In Palawan he jumped off the bangka boat into the deep ocean, unphased by the dark water and choppy waves. He even came with us as we swam from the boat through a limestone cave into to a huge lake in a volcanic canon. Lala said he gave her more confidence in the water - if he isn't scared, why should we be.
Traveling with Theo is demanding and rewarding - and definitely fun. I don't get a break for long, although Mum, Dyl and Lala have been wonderfully helpful. Im trying to potty train him too, which is again an extra challenge in the circumstances, but working quite well.
Despite his cuteness, Theo is truly exhausting - just 2 gears, full speed or passed out. Non-stop mischief and an incredible ability to blank any instructions that ruin his fun. I miss Tom so much at times.
His vocabulary is improving at an impressive rate since we have been away. The urge to relate his new experiences has made him acquire new words with alarming rapidity.
Inevitably, I worry about him all the time (especially without tom here to do the worrying for me). Key worries: his diet - especially being veggie (I tried him with some fish, to no avail), his mozzy bites (they love him), overheating, getting sun burn, being thirsty, being anxious, missing dad, missing home etc etc etc - but these seem abstract, as he really appears to be flourishing. He swam in the thermally heated waters of the pool from the moment he got up until supper time today. Ate a huge portion of Korean rice, veg and egg ( its similar dishes 3 times a day here, with rice for breakfast - we've smuggled bread and dairylea into our room) and then fell fast asleep in our cabin. Sleeping in the same bed together in new beds, new rooms, being continually on the move and getting into a routine with the jet lag ( 8 hours difference) has been a challenge, but I think we've cracked it.
Tuesday, 27 December 2011
Hot springs, wreck dive, Culion island
Hot springs, wreck dive, Culion island
Dyl, Theo and I took the bangka boat to the hot volcanic springs. You approach them by swimming through a mangrove. Theo delighted by the swim through the dark leafy tunnel, flanked by enormous mangrove roots. Even more excited on the discovery of the 'outside bath', a rock pool of translucent thermally heated water under the trees.
I chatted to friendly filipino family from Manila. When I told them we were of the the island of Siquijor on our next trip they looked very worried. They warned Dyl about the vampires and dangerous spirits that roam the island.
Siquijor is populated by many mediums and is believed to be a very spiritual place. Many Filipinos practice their indigenous religion alongside Catholicism, and belief in good and bad spirits, dangerous dwarves and vampires (which can leave half of themselves at home while the other half seeks to satisfy its bloodlust) is not uncommon. Apparently the tabloid papers have many stories of this kind, reported as fact. It makes Siquijor all the more alluring. As darkness falls at 6 or 6.30pm all year round, in the pitch black night with all the noises of the tropics, its doesn't take a great leap of the imagination to envisage a mischievous spirit lurking in the shadows of the thicket.
The wreck dive was incredible, clown fish, angel fish, luminescent sea slugs. It's clear why diving is so addictive - some people here spend every moment of their holidays diving, up to 3 dives a day. But the total immersion into an underwater world which forces you to forget the problems on the land is so alluring. You feel an incredible sense of serenity and a wonderful tranquility. On surfacing, the spell is broken, so little wonder that they spend thousands on making that intoxicating pleasure of escape last and last.
It was a strange visit to Cullion island. Until a cure was discovered in the 1980s, all the lepers of the philippines were herded up and sent to the island, forcibly. They formed a close knit and well organised community together, with their own schools and police force. They were looked after by a team of medical staff and nuns, who lived in a separate, segregated community. Many tests were carried out on the sick, and it was on the island that some of the major development were made towards finding a cure.
If any of the lepers gave birth, they were separated from their children at birth. Whisked off to the orphanage, parents were only allowed to see their children once a week through a glass screen.
Met, a young lady who works at Majikas, showed us round. Her grandfather had leprosy , her father separated from him at birth. The islands tragic past pervaded the present - the atmosphere here is forlorn and heavy. The hospital buildings, testing labs and orphanage still stand. Being there with Met, so closely linked to the islands history, made the visit powerfully poignant. It is also Met who cannot afford to see her son more than once a month. She was thrilled to get a chance to see him during our visit to Cullion and brought him a big gift. He had a very serious little face and hated to be parted from her once again as we headed back on the boat to Majikas cottages.
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Monday, 26 December 2011
Bangka boat
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Palawan
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