Manila is made up of a network of cities; a huge congested mass of humanity many of whom appear to exist in extreme poverty, in makeshift shacks which fill vast swathes of the metropolis, whilst the privileged navigate across the choked city space from one air conditioned artificial environment to another; high rise flat, big American car, super mall. There is a place called 'high street'; even this is a mall built to resemble an american high street. In the worst light, this place could be described as the ultimate postmodern dystopia, a shrine to simulacra and testimony to the potential failure of mass capitalism and the corruption of consumerist greed. In a better light, it a bustling, exciting metropolis pumping money into the Philippines, the great pulsating heart and life blood of the islands.
Education, even at primary level, and basic healthcare come at a cost. There are only 2 main state hospitals serving the entire city. When Theo developed an eye infection on new years day, we went to the private hospital and we were seen almost immediately. The hospital was immaculate, a shining white medical haven. They correctly diagnosed him with an allergy, gave him a shot of anti- histamine and prescribed various medicines. An effortless experience, highly organised and efficient. Dylan enjoys this amazing standard of care, but it comes at a price. Even Theo's name tag, the cotton wool and sticky tape were billed. We paid up, and it was goodbye to the smiling doctors and back into the sticky confusion outside.
Every destination in this city seems an incredible mission to reach. To procure basic things, like bread or milk, requires a car trip outside the 'fort' ( Dylan's gated community is called fort bonifacio), a security check, a drive through traffic jams, another security check to park and a trip through the enormous mall, and often a long queue. Not a place for pedestrians, there is no 'popping' out on foot. Some roads are seemingly impossible to cross - even the forms entertainment available are manufactured, with family holidays based in theme parks and resorts.
One does not have to be super-rich to have a luxury lifestyle, especially if your money has been made abroad. A school teacher in a private school could enjoy a fleet of staff, with a chauffeur, nanny, maid and gardener. It is also not so unusual to travel with bodygards - the children of important foreign diplomats are taken to school by their body guards, who also partake in any school outings, bringing the pistol and pack lunch.
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